Buttonhole-sewing machine.



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Patented Jan. 30, I900.

7 Sheets-Sheet I.

G S HILL 8:. D A HITCHCUCK BUTTDNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 17, 1898.) (No Model.)

WITNESSES fld THE Nunms FEYERS c0. PAOTOAJTNO WASNINGTON. DYC.

H0. 642,l22. Patented Jan. 30, 1900. G. S. HILL &. D. A. HITCHEUCK.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 17, 1898.)

7 SheetsSheet 2.

(No Model.)

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No. 642,122. Patented Jan. 30; 1900. G. S. HILL &. D. A. HITCHCOCK.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

7 Sheets-$haet 3.

(Application filed Jan. 7, 93-) (No Model.)

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m. 642,!22. Patented Ian. 30, won. a. s. HILL & u. A. HITCHCUCK.

, BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 17, 1898.) Modem 1 Sheets-Sheet 4.

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52!:- i i i ii iiiizEI I WITNEESEEI No. 642,!22. Patented Jan. 30, I900. G. S. HILL 8:. D. A. HITCHCIJCK.

BUTTUNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

[Application filed Jan. 1'7, 1898.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Shaet 5.

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//Illll N0. 642,!22. Pacentedlan. 30, I900. G. S. HILL 8. D. A. HITCHCUBK.

BUTTDNHGLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 1'7, 1898.) (N0 Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 6,

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No. 842,!22. Patented Ian. 30, I900. G. S. HILL & D. A. HITCHGOGK. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Jan. 17, 1898.) 1 Sheets-Shaet .INVENTUFQE & J? mu MQ QMMW/Q MTNEEEEE;

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"illniTien STATES PATENT Trice.

GEORGE S. IIILL AND DANIEL A. IIITOHOOGK, OF IIAVERIIILL, MASSACHU- SETTS, ASSIGNORS TO JOHN J. SULLIVAN, OF IPSIVIOII, MASSACHUSETTS.

BUTTONHOLE- -SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 642,122, dated January 30, 1900. Application filed January 17, 1898. Serial No. 666,848. (No model.)

To [LZZ/ whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, GEORGE S. HILL and DANIEL A. HITOHCOOK, of Haverhill, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts,

have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an improvement in bnttonhole-sewing machines; and it consists in the novel features of construction and relative arrangement of parts hereinafter fully described in the specification, clearly illustrated in the drawings, and particularly pointed out in the claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying seven sheets of drawings, forming a part of this application, in which like characters indicate like parts wherever they occur.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represents in side elevation a machine embodying our invention. Fig. 2 represents atop plan View of the mechanism below the bed-plate, the latter being broken away. Fig. 3 represents a cross sectional view on the line 3 3 of Fig. 2, looking in the direction of the arrow. Fig. 4E represents a front end elevation of the machine. Fig. 5 represents a rear end elevation of the machine. Fig. 6 represents a side elevation of the stop movement for the sewing mechanism. Fig. 7 representsa vertical sectional view on the line 7 7 of Fig. 5. Fig. 8 represents a cross-sectional view on the line 8 8 of Fig. 6. Fig. 9 represents a top plan view of the intermittent gears and locks for rotating and locking the needle-bar and turret, the locks being shown in engagement. Fig. 10 is a like view showing the gears in engagement. Fig. 11 representsa detail perspective view of the starting mechanism. Fig. 1? represents a detail perspective view of the release rock-shaft for the work-clamp toggles.

Fig. 13 represents a vertical sectional view of the turret with its sewing mechanism, also the upper needle, the knife, and knife-block. Fig. lat represents a top plan View of the tur rot and parts carried thereby. Fig. 15 represents a detail view showing in front elevation the looper mechanism and a section of the turret. Fig. 16 represents a detail view of the throat-plate for handling the cord, the work being shown in dotted lines, it being understood that the work rests on top of the work-plate. Fig. 17 represents a cross-sectional view thereof. Fig. 18 is a viewsimilar to Fig. 16, showing the work removed and the cord drawn clear for the next stitch. Fig. 19 represents a detail perspective view of the sewing mechanism, showing the under needle passing through the loop of the upper needle held by the looper. Fig. 20 represents a like View of the same parts, showing the upper needle passing through the loop of the under needle. Fig. 21 is a like View of the same parts, showing the looper passing through the loop of the upper needle. Fig. 22 representsin top plan view the relative arrangement of the work-hold ingarms and the spread ing-pin.

Referring to the drawings, in the embodiment of our invention therein shown and selected by us for the purpose of illustration the base A, bed-plate A, and the overhanging arm A may be of any preferredconstruction, our invention not relating to these parts, but to the hereinafter-described mechanism supported thereby.

0. represents a shaft mounted in suitable hearings on the under side of the bed-plate in the rear of the machine. This shaft we term for convenience the rear shaft.

a represents a pulley fast upon the end of the shaft a and arranged to be driven by a belt a from another wheel. (Not shown.)

In the present embodiment of our machine the wheel ct is designed to run continuously and carries upon its inner side a spiral cam a (see Figs. 2, t, and 5,) arranged to engage for a predetermined length of time a roll o on the end of the sliding stud a This stud is slidingly arranged in the horizontal arm 0t of a bell-crank lever a, said lever being pivoted at its angle upon a pin a carried by a bracket a on the lower side of the bed-plate.

A helical spring a" is arranged upon the stud a between the inner face of the arm a and a cap a screwed upon the inner end of the stud, whereby the roll is yieldingly held in a plane inside of the plane of a spiral cam a bell-crank a".

and therefore out of engagement with said cam except when thrown into engagement by means hereinafter described.

a represents a crown-cam loosely mounted on the shaft a and secured to and arranged to turn with the wheel a. Preferably this crown-cam a is formed on an extended hub of the wheel a.

or represents a disk fast on the shaft a, provided with a lug a.

a represents a clutch member pivoted at one end to the lug Ct.

at represents a spring arranged between the disk 00 and clutch member and arranged to throw the free end of the clutch member.

outward and its pin a into the slot at in the web of the crown-cam a when the lower end of the clutch member is released from the cam-track 04 on the lower arm a of the This cam-track is arranged to engage at a predetermined time the free end of the clutch member, and as the clutch member continues to revolve the engagement ofits free end with this cam-track will withdrawthe pin am from the slot a".

a represents a bell-crank lever pivoted to abracket at the top of the bed-plate. One arm of this lever is above the bed-plate, while the vertical arm of the lever is connected at its lower end to a sliding rod a (See Figs. 1 and 2.) The free end of the rod 0L is arranged to engage the cap a The operator .by depressing the horizontal arm of the lever a can thus throw the roll a into engagement with the cam u As the cam continues to revolve it depresses the stud and at the same time the horizontal arm a sufliciently to draw this arm out of engagement with the free end of the clutch member a, thereby permitting the engagement of the pin a with the slot at", and thereby clutching the shaft a with the wheel a, the clutch remaining in engagement until its free end engages the cam-track a as heretofore described. The downward movement of the arm a causes an inward movement of the vertical arm of the bell-crank, the upper end of which is arranged to engage an arm of the lever a and force it in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 11. The lever at is pivoted to the bed-plate, as at a, and has its opposite end arranged to engage the knuckles of the toggles of the work-clamp hereinafter described. (See Figs. 2 and 4.)

The shaft a is provided with an eccentric 0. upon which an eccentric-strap ar -is arranged, having a pitman (L25 connecting said strap with the free end of the crank-arm a The opposite end of the crank-arm a is fast upon a shaft a, mounted in suitable bearings in the overhanging arm.

C628 represents a crank-arm secured to the front end of the shaft or and having its free end pivoted to one end of an arm a, the opposite end of which is pivoted to a collar a fast upon the cutter-bar 0. (See Fig. 4.) This cutter-bar is arranged to slide in brackets c0 a extending from the front end of the overhanging arm. The collar a is provided with a pin a, arranged to slide in a suitable hole in the lower bracket 01., in order to guide the cutter-bar and prevent the latter from twisting.

0. represents a knife carried by the'lower end of the cutter-bar, formed to out a buttonhole or slit in the cloth or fabric. This cutter-bar is shown as arranged to move at an angle to the needle, in order that one end of the slot made by the knife may be directly under or close to the plane occupied by the path of the needle, so that the buttonhole will be cut in position to be stitched without further manipulation of the cloth or fabric. This inclined position of the cutter-bar to the needle in addition to enabling the knife to have a forward as Well as a downward movement to properly position and cut the slit also enables the knife and bar after the cutting operation to be readily drawn upward and away from the path of the needle.

The operation of the mechanism thus far described is as follows: The operator depresses the horizontal arm of the starting-lever a, thereby forcing the roll a into engagement wit-h the spiral cam on the continuously-running wheel a. As the latter continues to revolve the roll and pin and also the horizontal arm are depressed, first causing the movement of the lever e to straighten the toggles of the work-clamp and clamp the work. Immediately thereafter the clutch member a is released and the wheel a locked to the shaft a, thereby causing the latter to revolve. This movement of the shaft a imparts one complete reciprocation to the cutter-bar c4 causing the latter to descend tocut the work and to return to its initial position. The parts are so timed that as soon as this movement of the cutter-bar is completed the free end of the clutch member a engages the camtrack a and its pin a is withdrawn from engagement with the aperture a" in the web of the crown-cam to automatically stop the shaft (1.

a represents a path cam fast on the shaft a.

a represents a lever pivoted at one end to a suitable bracket on the framework and at its free end to a reciprocating rod (4 or represents a roll on the lever 01, and arranged in the path of the cam at. The free end of the rod (r (see Fig.--3) is arranged to engage a lug a, pivoted to a bail a, that in turn is pivoted on the turret, hereinafter described, at a, said bail extending across the turret and having its ends bent downward for that purpose. (See Figs. 13 and 14.) To this bail a is secured a cutter-block a and a throat-plate a. A spring a (see Fig. 2) serves to yieldingly hold the bail, cutterblock, and throat-plate normally in the position shown in Fig. 3. When, however, the

shaft a is rotated to cut a buttonhole, as hereinafter described, simultaneously with the motion of the cutter bar, the rod (Wis thrown forward by the cam oj roll (L and lever a to lock the bail c and throw the cutter-block into the position shown in Fig. 13 to provide for the engagement of the knife with the cutter-block and insure the proper and accurate cutting of the bnttonhole. The continued rotation of the shaft to withdraws both the cutter-bar and the rod 0. into position shown in Fig. 3, the spring a returning the bail to the position shown in Fig. 3 and the throatplate a to the position therein shown ready for the stitching operation.

The throat-plate of is formed with the usual hole t for the passage of the needle and also with an undercut annular rib Fiaround which the cord which is employed to strengthen the edges of the buttonhole wraps as the needleturret is rotated. (See Fig. 16.) This projection is slotted, as at 3 in order to let the cord be disengaged when the buttonhole is completed, as shown in Fig. 18.

i) represents a lever pivoted mid wayits ends to the under side of the bed-plate, one end of this lever (see Fig. ll) being arranged to be engaged by the crown-cam a immediately after the clutch member a has been disengaged from the web thereof. The engagement of the said crown-cam with the roll I) of the lever b throws inward the opposite end 11 of said lever (see Fig. 2) and through the sliding bar If, to which said end is connected, causes the outer end of the bar 21 to slide the stop mechanism. (Shown in Figs. 6, 7, and 8.) The inward movement of the end 19 of the lever removes the plunger of the stop mechanism from the notched hub of the fast pulley and at the same time throws the belt 19 from the loose pulley Z1 to the fast pulley 1), thereby starting the shaft W, by which the sewing mechanism is driven. The belt 5 is connected to and driven by a wheel, (not shown,) it'being understood that this belt as well as the belt on the wheel ct are driven continuously, and, further, that the shaft b is not started until after the stopping of the shaft or substantially at that time. A pathcam b on the shaft l) serves to give motion to the take-up arm l)".

b is a lever pivoted midway its ends to the under side of the bed-plate and of which one end is arranged to be engaged by a wiper Z1 on one of the disks hereinafter described. The opposite end of this lever is formed with a dog I), arranged to engage an aperture in the bar b when the latter is moved inward by the lever end Z) in order to hold the parts in the position to which they are thrown by [his arm. The inner end of the bar Z1 is cored out, and in this core is arranged a helical spring 5 the said spring hearing at one end against the inner wall of the core and its opposite end against a fixed abutment 6 The parts are so arranged and timed that after the completion of the stitching opera tion and just before the unclamping of the work the wiper b engages the arm if, thereby releasing the dog I) from the bar 19 per mitting the spring I) to force the bar outward to throw the belt 17 to the loose pulley Z1 and the plunger of the stop mechanism into engagement with the cam 011 the fast pulley, hereinafter described.

17 represents a rock-shaft mounted in suitable bearings in the bed of the machine. This rock-shaft is formed with a depending arm 1), arranged to be engaged by a wiper 0 carried by the path-cam U, (see Fig. 12,) and it carries an arm b arranged to engage a complemental arm I), connected to the toggles of the work-clamp. In order to keep the arm I) in the path of the wiper and the arm I) normally in the inoperative position, a spring (not shown) is connected to the arm I) and to the bed-plate. The parts are so timed that the wiper b engages the arm I) to rock the shaft and open the work-clamp just after the engagement of the wiper b with the arm 12 to throw the belt 19 to the pulley Z2 and slide the stop mechanism to its operative position.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the depression of the hand-lever a engages the roll a with the spiral cam and that thereafter the several operations of the machine are antomatic in the order named, the first movement being to clamp the work, immediately after which the knife mechanism is operated. At the completion of these two steps the shaft a is automatically stopped and the shaft I) is automatically started, the latter being automatically started after the completion of the clamping and cutting operation and automatically stopped after the completion of the stitching operation.

Referring to Fig. 1, b and 11 represent the disks, forming members of the tension device for the needle-thread. Z1 represents a rod passing down through both disks into the arm A Y) represents a helical spring arranged on the rod 1) between the disk I) and a nut b By this construction constant ten sion is maintained on the thread during the stitching operation. 11 represents an arm, one end of which is forked to engage a complemental groove of the outer end of the rock-shaft b. The opposite end of this arm is secured to the sliding stop mechanism, whereby the rod b slides in unison'with the bar 0 WVhen the arm b slides the bar b inward to start the shaft 12 the arm 6 is slid to the left in Fig. 12 a sufficient distance to clear the wiper b When, however, the bar b is released and thrown to the right in Fig. 2 by means of the spring 0' the arm D is moved into the path of the wiper U. A loop 11 in Fig. 2 extends from the stop mechanism around the belt 11 whereby the said belt is moved to and from the fast pulley b by the inward and downward motion of the bar 0*. Vhen the belt is shifted from the tight to the loose pulley, some provision is necessary for bringing the sewing mechanism to rest at the proper point without shock. To accomplish this result, we have provided the means shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 5 and in detail in Figs. 6, 7, and 8. Upon the shaft 6 and in close proximity to the fast pulley Z7 is mounted a sliding box or support 0, to which the outer end of the bar b is secured and by which the box is slid, the bar serving not only to keep the box in position, but also to move the latter. This box is formed with an annular chamber which is arranged with a helicalspring 0 the spring being confined at either end by pins 0 represents a sleeve loosely mounted on a hub of the box 0, provided with an upwardly-extending arm 0 0 represents lugs formed on either side of said arm and arranged to engage the spring 0 as shown in Fig. 8. The arm 0 extends upward through a suitablyformed slot in the top of the box and after it leaves the box is extended at an angle toward the fast pulley I). (See Fig. 6.) This exten sion 0 is hollowed out to form a chamber, in which a plunger 0 Works. (See Fig. 7.) The plunger is formed with a pin 0 arranged in a complemental slot 0 in order to prevent a twisting motion of the plunger. The plunger 0 at its upper end is cored, and in this core portion is arranged a helical spring 0 0 represents a cap screwed to the upper end of the extension 0 and carrying a rod 0 arranged within the helical spring c the latter bearing at one end against the lower portion of the chamber in the rod 0 and its upper end against the cap 0 as shown in Fig. 7. By this construction the plunger 0 is springpressed toward the shaft b the tension being regulated by means of a cap 0 The operation of the construction above described is as follows: Referring to Fig. 6, in which the parts are represented as they are situated during the stitching operation, the end of the plunger 0 being clear of the cam 0, formed on the tight pulley b, at the completion of the the stitching operation heretofore referred to the bolt 17 is slid to the right in Fig. 2. This movement also carries the sliding box to the right in said figure and also in Fig. 6. This movement of the box is made sufficient to carry the parts to the position shown in Figs. 1 and 7that is to say, the end of the plunger 0 is over the cam 0 The parts are so timed that when the plunger c is brought over the cam it engages the cam at its low point, and the further rotation of the shaft 19 causes the cam to force the plunger upward against the tension of the spring o This operation acts as a brake, and the resistance offered by the plunger is sufficient to practically bring the shaft b to rest when the plunger reaches and is forced into the notch in the cam shown in Fig. 7. The plunger and its extension 0 have an axial movement, in addition to the radial movement heretofore described, by'reason of the arrangement of the strap or collar 0 From thisit follows that whatever momentum is in the shaft 11 when the plunger engages the notch in the cam 0 will be taken up by the spring 0 the plunger, shaft, and cam revolving together against. the tension of this spring, which is sufficient to overcome the momentum left in the shaft when the plunger engages the notch and brings the shaft to rest Without shock or jar. When the bar 6 is slid to the left in Fig. 2 by means of the arm Z), the sliding box is likewise correspondingly slid and the plunger a removed from engagement with the cam 0 to the position shown in Fig. 6.

19 represents a pitman connecting the shaft 11 with the shaft 19 in the overhanging arm, by which the needle-bar and its needle are reciprocated.

In Fig. 2,frepresents a yoke pivoted to the front side of the machine at f. A roller f connected to the end of the inner arm of said yoke, is arranged in a groove f on the upper side of a path-cam f secured to the vertical shaft 6. By this construction the yoke is oscillated on its pivot at predetermined times and to a predetermined extent. f represents a carriage arranged to slide in suitable ways on the arms of the yoke f. f represents an arm connected to the rear end of said frame, the extremity of said arm being formed with a projection or roller arranged in a longitunal slot f in the free end of a lever f. This lever is pivoted at its opposite end at f to the bed of the machine and midway its ends provided with a rollerf (shown in dotted lines,) arranged in a groove f of the path-cam f before referred .to. By this construction it will be seen that the sliding carriage f is moved forward and back at predetermined times and to predetermined distances, the sliding carriage and supporting-yoke serving as means by which the work-clamp hereinafter described is given its several movements of reciprocation and sidewise translation in order to properly position the edge of the buttonhole to the action of the stitchforming mechanism.

Referring to Fig. 3', there is shown in side elevation one half of our improved workclamp, and as the two halves are duplicates of each other a description of one will be sufficient for both, the entire clamp being shown in end elevation in Fig. 1, in top plan view in Fig. 2, and in side elevation in Fig. 4:.

Referring to Fig. 3, It represents a pin secured in a vertical position by a screw it in a cross-bar or casting 71 on the inner end of the sliding carriage. This pin h, it will be seen, projects both above and below the crossbar 72 and it furnishes a pivot on which is mounted a casting b 71 represents an arm projecting from the casting below the crossbar. 77, represents an arm projecting from said casting above the cross-bar. 72. represents one arm of a toggle, one of whose ends is mounted upon a pivot h, carried by the arm h. 71. represents a short arm secured to the pivot if and provided with a set-screw h adapted to engage the arm 72, to limit the movement of the pin 71.", and consequently the arm 71, or the arms h 7L8 may be secured together or made integral. it represents the other arm of the toggle, the knuckle h of which is formed by the pivotal connection between the two arms h 71 it represents a lever pivoted intermediate its ends on the top of the arm The rear end of this lever is pivoted to the arm h and at the forward end of this lever is secured the upper jaw 7H of the work-clamp. it represents the lower complemental jaw of the work-clamp and is secured bya screw 7& to the casting 7L3. From this construction it will be seen that both the jaws h 71- can be swung simultaneously from the pin 72, while the upper jaw h has a motion to and from the jaw 77, for clamping and unclamping the goods, this motion being effected by the toggles composed of the arms h h, the work being clamped when the toggle is straightened, as in Fig. 3, by means of the lei er (L21, and unclamped when the toggle is broken by means of the rock-shaft I), as shown in Fig. 4: in dotted lines, it being understood, of course, that the work-clamp is made up of two sets of arms, each set being like the pair shown in Fig. 3. The motion of the arms 7& away from the jaws h is simultaneous and in like directions. The swinging motion of each pair of jaws is toward and from each other, the two pairs of jaws being in their nearest position when the buttonhole is being cut, and being thereafter swung on the pins h away from each other in order to spread the buttonhole. The mechanism for spreading the jaws in the present embodiment of our machine consists of a bar carried by each casting h or jaws h, rigid on said casting, this bar being struck by a movable member. The swinging of the two castings necessitates a simultaneous swinging of the pair of arms carried by each casting.

Referring to Figs. 3 and 22, it represents cam-plates secured to the lower jaws h with their ca1n-surfaces facing each other. It represents a bracket extending up from the crossbar 7F between the jaws h. This bracket at its end supports a rotatable spindle h 71 represents a pin extending down from said spindle between the cam-plates h 7L rep resents a pin extending from said spindle into a loop h on the upper jaw 7L13, the pin 71 serving to steady the spindle and to move it in one direction, as hereinafter described. 7R represents a spring connected with the pin 71. adapted to pull the pin to the left in Fig. 3. 71 represents a projection on the bar a. \Vhen this bar is slid to the right in Fig. 3 to throw the cutter-block in the position shown in Fig. 13, the projection passes under the end of the pin h, as the two clamps are then unseparated; but when the bar is moved to the left the projection h engages the arm h and forces it between the camplates to separate the clamps and spread the buttonhole, the parts remaining in this position during the sewing operation. lVhen the clamps are drawn up after the sewing operation, the loop 7i engages the pin 7L20 and rocks the spindle to withdraw the pin it from between the camplates, thus allowing the clamps to approach each other.

6 represents an upright shaft supported in suitable hearings in the bed of the machine. The shaft is provided with a worm-gear 6', adapted to be driven by a worm e on the shaft 6 To this shaft above and below the bedplate are secured stop-gears e 6 respectively, the stop-gear 6 being arranged to turn and hold the upper sewing mechanism, while the stop-gear 6 simultaneously turns and holds the lower sewing mechanism.

The needle-bar r is arranged to turn in suitable bearings r in the overhanging arm. This needle-bar is centrally cored, as at W, in order to let the needle-thread pass through it to the needle. The needle-bar at its lower end is suitably deflected from a right line, as at T in order that as the needle-bar is rotated its needle may assume the proper relation in respect to the lower sewing mechanism hereinafter described.

3, Fig. 13, represents a turret-cylinder mount ed and arranged to turn in a suitable aperture in a bracket in the base of the machine. This turret carries the lower sewing mechanism. Upon the base of the turret and upon the needle-bar are secured complemental stop-gears e 6 adapted for engagement with their complemental gears e e". As both sets of gears are duplicates of each other and the series act in unison the description of one will suffice for all.

Referring to Figs. 1, 9, and 10, it will be seen that the stop-gears e e are composed of a disk 6 To one side of this disk is socured a mutilated gear 6 while to the opp0- site side of the disk and to the opposite end of the diameter thereof is secured a differential gear 6 The periphery of the disk is mutilated beneath the gear e and above the gear 6 and is uniform between said gears.

The needle-barr and the turret s are each provided with a mutilated plate 6 to coact with the disk 6 the formation of the plates and disks being such that the needle-bar r and turret s are held stationary during predetermined times. Above and below the disk e are secured a mutilated gear e and a differen tial gear e ,correspondin g, respectively,

to the gears e 6 The cam-surfaces of the coacting plates 6 and e are provided, so that the latter can make a partial rotation without effecting a movement of the former, the notches in each of said plates 6 being to receive the corners of the other plate.

The parts are so constructed that when the complemental gears are in mesh the complemental surfaces of the stop-plates are disengaged, and vice versa. It follows from this that the turret and needle-bar are intermittently rotated by the plates and gears, which we term for convenience stop-gears.

Then the stitching operation begins at one end of the buttonhole, the disk 0' beneath, the mutilated portion of the gear a will be in engagement with the complemental stop-face on the disk e At the completion of one or more stitches the gear-teeth at the left in Fig. 9 will engage complemental gearteeth of the turret and needle-bar, thereby giving both parts a partial rotation to turn the upper needle and turret and cause the formation of stitches part way around the end of the butt-onhole slit. Immediately thereafter the stop-plates come to engagement. At this point the sliding frame f is moved forward in order to stitch the side of the buttonhole. At the completion of this movement-to wit, in the vicinity of the eye of the buttonho1ethe stop-gears are in the position shown in Fig. 9. As soon as the eye of the buttonhole is reached it is necessary to carry the stitching mechanism around the latter. This is accomplished both by movement of the stitching mechanism and by the swinging movement of the yoke f above referred to. At the proper point the differential gears e e come into engagement, first moving the needle-bar and turret rapidly and thereafter slowly, the movement being sufficient to carry the sewing mechanism around the eye end of the buttonhole to the opposite side of the buttonhole, at which point the complemental face of the disk at the right in Fig. 9 comes into engagement with the com plemental faces of the disk e holdingt-he stitching mechanism stationary. At this point the sliding frame is moved again to the rear to stitch the last side of the buttonhole. When near the completion of the operation, the righthand gear-teeth of the gear a in Fig. 9 come into engagement with the complemental gearteeth on the needle-bar and turret, thereby swinging the sewing mechanism around the end of the slit until the stop-faces between the two sets of gear-teeth of the gear 6 come in to engagement with the complemental stopfaces on the needle-bar turret. This presses the'parts to the initial position, and the several movements are so timed that at this point the machine is automatically stopped, as heretofore described, and the work unclamped.

It will be noted that the gear-teeth e e are at different distances radially from their common support, the teeth 9 e being also at different distances from the axis of their movement. This is for the purpose of causing a differential rotative movement of the stitch-forming mechanism, so that the needles will swing around the small end of the buttonhole-slit more rapidly than around the other end.

The upper sewing mechanism consists of the usual reciprocating needle-bar 'r and its needle 1". The lower sewing mechanism, as I have stated, is mounted in and carried by a turret s and is arranged to be driven by a pitman 8', connected to the shaft 12 5 represents a bell-crank lever pivoted at its angle to the turret. One arm of this lever is connected by a ball-and-socket joint to the pitman 3', while the other arm of the lever is connected by a link 5 to a lever 5 which is pivoted at one end to the turret and atits opposite end carries the needle-looper or underthread carrier 5- of the lower sewing mechanism.

Referring to Fig. 13, it will be seen that the link 3 together with one arm of the bellcrank lever 8 constitutes a toggle, and that when this toggle is straight the needle .9 will be at its highest point. The parts are constructed in order to carry the knuckle 8 still farther to the left to a position corresponding to .the position which it occupies to the right in Fig. 13. Supposing the toggle to be straight, then as the knuckle moves to the left the needle 3 will drop or dip, thereby loosening its thread to form a loop through which the upper needle 7' can pass. knuckle then returns to its straight position again,carrying the needle to its highest point, and then the knuckle is carried to the position shown in Fig. 13, bringing the needle to its lowest point. It will thus be seen that the lower needle is not only carried through the fabric, but is also given a dip for the purpose stated.

15 represents an arm pivoted at one end of the turret. The free end of this arm (see Figs. 14 and 15) is formed as a bearing 25, in which is loosely arranged a spindle 15 To the upper end of this spindle is secured a loop spreader 11 t represents an arm pivoted at one end of the turret.

t is a link pivoted at one end in ears t in the arm t and at its other end secured to the' spindle 6 i is a vertical lip on the arm 15 to which is secured a ball t t Fig. 14, represents a link connected at one end to the ball i in a ball'and-socket joint and at its other end by a like joint on the end of the pin 25 carried by the arm 8 By this construction it will be seen that the loop-spreader is given a movement of translation and likewise a movement of rotation on the pin 1?.

The operation of the upper and lower stitch mechanism forming the stitch is shown successively in Figs. 19, 20, and 21. In Fig. 19 the lower needle is passed through the loop of the upper needle held by the loop-spreader, while in Fig. 20 the under needle has been projected through the fabric and the upper needle has passed through the loop of the lower needle, the latter being dipped, as heretofore stated. In Fig. 21 the loop-spreader is shown passing through the loop of the upper needle to hold the thread ready for the under needle to pass through the loop of the upper needle, as shown in Fig. 19, it being understood that the lower needle passes through the slotof the buttonhole, while the upper needle penetrates the fabric.

The

The mechanism for operating the underthread carrier or lower needle, as I have termed it, and the loop-spreaderare positively connected to the driven parts respectively, being termed either lever mechanism or toggle mechanism. By this positive connection they operate the loop-spreader and the lower needle without the aid or employment of cams or kindred devices, and hence we are enabled to run the machine at a high rate of speed and without noise or a great expenditure of power. The lever mechanism is connected by a universal joint with the operating-shaft, said joint being formed of a ball and socket, whereby the upper portion of the connection is capable of rotating or oscillating relatively to the lower part.

Having thus explained the nature of our in: vention and described a way of constructing and using the same, though without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modes of its use, what we claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, including an upper needle and its bar, and a lower needle and a rotary turret therefor, of an operatively-movable cutter-block mounted on the turret, a buttonhole-cutter adapted to coact with said cutter-block, said cutter and block being movable into and out of the lines of the needle-bar, and means for giving said cutter and block their described operations.

In a huttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including an upper needle and its bar, and a lower needle and a rotary turret therefor,'of a cutter mounted on a stationary support, a cutter-block mounted movably on said turret, and automatic mechanism for bodily moving said cutter and block into operative position with respect to the stitch-forming mechanism, whereby the cutting is accomplished without shifting or moving the work.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a buttonhole-cutter, a rotary turret carrying a part of the said stitch-forming mechanism, and a cutter-block pivotally located upon the turret.

i. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a turret carrying a part of the said stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter, a cutterblock mounted on the turret and normally in an inoperative position, and means for moving said cutter and block simultaneously into and out of operative position. i

5. In a buttonholc-sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter, a turret for carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter-block, a support for the cutter-block hinged to the turret, and means for operating the cutter and the cutter-block.

6. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter, a turret carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter-block movably mounted on the turret, a shaft, and connections between the shaft and the cutter and cutter-block.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism ineluding a rotary turret, a cutter, a cutterblock and a throat-plate mounted on said tu rret, and means for moving the cutter-block and throat-plate into and out of operative position alternately.

S. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of stitcirforming mechanism, a cutter, a turret carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, a movable support mounted on the turret, and a throat-plate and cutter-block located on said support, and means for actuating said support to move said throat-plate and on tter-block alternately into operative position.

9. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a turret carrying a portion of said stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter, a throat-plate and a cutter-block connected together and having their operative faces lying in intersecting planes, and a support for said work-plate and cutter-block pivoted upon the turret.

10. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of a work-clamp, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, a shaft connected to the cutting mechanism, a contiuuously-rotating wheel loose on the shaft, and having a cam, a two-armed lever adapted to operate the work-clamp, a spring-tensioned clutch, connected to the shaft and disengaged and normally held out of engagement with the said wheel by the two-armed lever, and manuallyoperated devices for temporarily connecting the two-armed lever with the cam, to cause first the operation of the Work-clamp, and secondly, the operation of the cutting mechanism.

11. In a buttonhoie-sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, buttonholecutting mechanism, and stitch-forming mech anism, of a shaft, a rotating Wheel loose thereon, and clutch mechanism fast thereon for actuating the stitch-forming mechanism, a second shaft, a wheel on said second shaft and having cams fast therewith, a lever adapted to actuate the work-clamp and arranged to be actuated by one of said cams, a spring-tensioned clutch fast on the second shaft adapted to engage the other of said cams but disengaged from and held out of engagement with the said cam by said lever, a second lever adapted to be acted on by one of said cams for engaging and operating the clutch mechanism on the firstmentioned shaft, and manually-controlled devices for engaging the second-mentioned lever withits cam to cause, first, the operation of the workclamp by the first-mentioned lever, second the operation of the cutting mechanism by the second-mentioned shaft, and third, the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism by connecting the first mentioned shaft and its wheel through the medium of the second-mentioned lever.

12. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a rotary turret carrying a portion of the stitchforming mechanism,buttonhole-cutting mechanism including a movable cutter block mounted on the turret and a movable cutter, a Work-clamp, and mechanism for operating the work-clamp to engage the work, mechanism independent of the stitch-forming mechanism for operating the cutting mechanism to cut a buttonhole-slit while the Work is in position for but before the stitching operation, mechanism for setting in motion the stitchforming mechanism, devices for stopping the said stitch-forming mechanism, and means for operating the clamp to release the work.

13. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of an upper needle, means for actuating said upper needle, a lower-needle or under-thread carrier adapted to pass through a buttonhole-slit, means for causing the rotation of said upper needle and said under needle or thread carrier, and a toggle for operating the under needle or thread carrier.

14. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an upper needle, an actuating means therefor whereby said needle is caused automatically to travel around the end of a buttonhole-slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret,.an under or lower needle supported by said turret, a

toggle for actuating said lower or under needle, and means for operating the toggle.

15. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an upper needle, and actuating means to automatically cause the said needle to sew around the end of a buttonhole-slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, an under or lower needle supported by said turret, toggle-levers for actuating said under or lower needle, one of the toggle-levers being a bell-crank, and means for actuating the bell-crank.

16. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an upper needle, and actuating means to automatically cause the said needle to sew around the end of a buttonhole-slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, an under or lower needle supported by said turret, a needle-carrier pivoted at its end, toggle-levers one of which is pivoted to the needle-carrier between its ends, and means for actuating the toggles.

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an upper needle, and actuating means to automatically cause the said needle to sew around the end of a buttonhole-slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a lower or under needle supported by said turret, a pivoted needle-carrier, a support, a toggle pivoted to the support and to the needle-carrier, one. .of the levers of the toggle being a bell-crank, and mechanism for operating the bell-crank.

18. In a sewing-machine, the combination of an upper needle, means to reciprocate it, means for automatically causing the said needle to sew around the end of a buttonholeslit, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a lower needle, a toggle supported by said turret for reciprocating said lower needle, and means for actuating the toggle.

19. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, a cutter for forming a buttonhole-slit, a workclamp, and stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch-forming mechanism comprising an upper needle, means to actuate said needle to cause it to sew around the end of a buttonhole-slit, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a lower needle adapted to pass through the buttonhole-slit supported by said turret, and means including a toggle for actuating said lower needle.

20. In a butionhole-sewing machine, a cutter for forming a buttonhole-slit, a workclamp, and stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch-forming mechanism comprising an upper needle, means to actuate said needle to cause it to sew around the end of a buttonhole-slit, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said tu rret, a lower needle adapted to pass through the buttonhole-slit, and supported by said turret, and lever mechanism including a toggle and a bell-crank for actuating said lower needle.

21. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, a cutter for forming a buttonhole-slit, a workclamp, and stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch-forming mechanism comprising an upper needle, means to actuate said needle to cause it to sew around the end of a buttonhole-slit, a lower needle adapted to pass through the buttonhole-slit, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a movable support for said lower needle mounted on said turret, and a toggle for actuating said support, said toggle being constructed and arranged to have its knuckle traverse a path intersecting the line connecting the outer ends of the toggle, whereby said lower needle is caused to dip when it reaches the end of its movement through the said slit, and before it begins its reverse movement.

22. In a sewing-machine, the combination of an upper needle, means to reciprocate it, a turret, means for imparting a simultaneous intermittent rotatory movement to the turret and the upper needle, a lower needle supported on said turret, and means to reciprocate said lower needle, said means comprising a toggle, one member of which is a bell-crank, and means for oscillating the bell-crank.

23. In a sewing-machine, the combination of an upper needle, means to reciprocate it, a turret, means for imparting a simultaneous intermittent rotary movement to the turret and the upper needle, a lower needle mounted on said turret, and means to reciprocate said scales 9 lower needle, said means comprising a pivoted needle-carrier, a toggle pivoted to the turret and to the needle-carrier, and means for oscillating one member of the toggle.

2%. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising an upper needle, a lower needle, a loop-spreader, a turret upon which the lower needle and loop-spreader are mounted, means for operating the turret, and a toggle for actuating the loop-spreader.

In a sewing-machine, the combination of an upper and a lower needle and their carriers, means for actuating said needles, a loopspreader, a swinging loop-spreader carrier separate from the lower needle and its carrier, and a toggle for actuating the loopspreader.

26. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an upper and a lower needle, carriers for said needles, and actuating mechanism therefor, of aloop-spreader, a pivotal loop-spreader carrier, separate from the lower-needle carrier, a toggle for imparting a movement of translation to the loop-spreader carrier, and a movement of rotation to the loop-spreader and mechanism for actuating the toggle.

27. In a sewinganachine, the combination of an upper and a lower needle, said lower needle being adapted to pass through a buttonhole-slit, mechanism for actuating said needles, a loop-spreader supported independently of the said needles, and a toggle for actuating the said loop-spreader.

28. In a sewing-machine, the combinat-io with an upper and a lower needle, said lower needle being adapted to pass through a buttonhole-slit, and mechanism for actuating said needles, of a loop-spreader located permanentlybelow the work, and toggle mechanism for actuating the said loopspreader.

29. In a bnttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of a cutter for makinga buttonhole-slit, a work-clamp, an upper needle, actuating means for said needle, alower needle adapted to pass through the buttonhole-slit, actuating means for said lower needle, a loopspreader, and a toggle for operating said loopspreader.

30. In a sewing-machine, the combination with an upper and a lower needle, and means for actuating said upper needle, of a toggle foractuatingthelowerneedle,aloop-spreader, a toggle for actuating the loop-spreader, and connections between the toggles whereby one is actuated by the other.

31. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination ofa rotatory upper needle,means for actuating said upper needle, a lower needle, a turret carrying the lowerneedle, means to rotate the turret in one direction only, a

' loop-spreader mounted 011 the turret and toggles for operating the lower needle and the loop-spreader.

32. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of a rotatory upper needle, a

lower needle, mechanism for actuating said needles, a rotatory turret carrying the lower needle, a looper mounted on the turret, and a toggle for operating the looper.

In abuttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism comprising an upper needle, a lower needle, a turret carrying said lower needle, and mechanism for imparting an intermittent rotatory movement always in the same direction to the upper needle and the-turret, the last said mechanism comprising coacting disks and eoacting mutilated gears.

34.. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism,comprising an upperneedie, a lower needle, a turret, and mechanism for imparting an intermittent differential rotatory movement to the upper needle and the turret, said mechanism including coacting gears each having its teeth farther from its center on one side than on its other side.

35. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism comprising an upper needie, a lower needle, a turret, and mechanism for imparting an intermittent differential rotatory movement to the upper needle and the turret, said mechanism including coacting mutilated gears each having its teeth farther from its center on one side than on the radially opposite side.

36. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism and a turret carrying a lower needle, and mechanism for imparting an intermittent rotatory movement to the upper needle and the turret, the last said mechanism comprising a shaft having two mutilated disks each pro vided with geanteeth, a mutilated disk and gears on the turret and gears and a mutilated disk on the upper-needle bar.

37. Abuttonhole-sewingmachine,comprising a turret having a mutilated disk, and a gear on each side of the disk, a shaft having a mutilated disk in engagement with the first mentioned disk, and a mutilated gear on each side of the second-mentioned disk adapted to alternately engage with the mutilated gears of the turret.

3S. Abuttonhole-sewing machine, compris ing an upper-needle bar having a mutilated disk and a gear on each side of the disk, and a shaft having a mutilated disk with mutilated gears on each side thereof.

39. Abuttonhole-sewing machine comprising a needle=carrier having a mutilated eccentric gear, and a driving-shaft having a mutilated eccentric gear to mesh intermittingly with the first-mentioned gear, whereby a differential movement is imparted to said needle-bar.

40. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism of clamping mechanism comprising two clamping members, toggle-levers connected to the outer ends of said members, a lever for throwing the toggle into operative posi- IIO tion, acam and devices operated by the cam for throwing the toggle into inoperative position.

ll. In abuttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism including an upper needle, a lower-thread carrier, and a rotatory turre-t for said lower-thread carrier, and a throatplate mounted on said turret and having an aperture to permit of the passage of the buttonhole-cord, said throat-plate also having a slot extending from said aperture to its edge.

42. In abuttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism including an upper needle, aloWer-thread carrier, and a rotatory turret forsaid lower-thread carrier, and a throatplate mounted on said turret and having an aperture to permit of the passage of the buttonhole-cord, said throat-plate also having a slot for the cord to lie in, and undercut edges for the purpose set forth.

43. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, u pperthread mechanism, under-thread mechanism including a rotary turret, a throat-plate supported on said turret, and mechanism for rocking said throat-plate relatively to the turret for the purpose set forth.

44. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, a turret, a loopspreader mounted on said turret, mechanism for actuatingsaid loop-spreader to takea loop from one needle and present it to the other, means for operating the upper needle, and lever mechanism including a toggle for operating said lower needle.

45. In a sewing-machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, a turret, a loop spreader mounted on said turret independently of the needles to take a loop from one needle and present it to the other, means for operating the upper needle, lever mechanism including a toggle for operating said lower needle and connections between the said mechanism and said loop-spreader.

46. In a sewing-machine, an upper needle,

a lower needle, a turret, a loop-spreader mounted on said turretindependently of the needles to take a loop from. one needle and present it to the other, means for operating the upper needle, lever mechanism including a toggle for operating said lower needle, and lever mechanism for operating the said loopspreader.

47. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to pass through a buttonhole-slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end of abuttonhole-slit,

through a buttonhole-slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the. end of a buttonhole-slit, and mechanism for operating said lower needle, said mechanism comprising a shaft, and positive connections including a toggle between said shaft and said lower-needle car rier whereby said needle is moved positively into and out of operative position.

' 49. In a buttonholesewing machine, an tipper needle, a lower needle adapted to pass through a'buttonhole-slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end of a buttonhole-slit, and mechanism for operating said lower needle, said mechanism comprising a shaft, and positive connections between said shaft and said lower-needle carrier whereby said needle is moved positively into and out of operative position, said connections including a toggle and provisions for permitting a rotatory movement of the needle relatively to the shaft.

50. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to pass through a buttonhole-slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for operating the upper needle, a turret for the lowerneedle to swing it around the end of a buttonhole-slit, a shaft and positive connections between said shaft and said lower-needle carrier whereby the needle is carried into and out of opera tive position by the shaft, said connections including a toggle and a swivel-joint.

51. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to pass through a buttonhole-slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end of a buttonhole-slit, a shaft and positive connections between said shaft and said lower-needle carrier whereby the needle is carried into and out of operative position by the shaft, said connections including a toggle and a ball connected to the toggle and a socket connected to the shaft.

52. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, complemental stitch-forming mechanism, a turret and actuating means therefor, in combination with cutting-mechanism comprising an anvil or cutter-block movably mounted on the turret, and a cutter mounted upon a suitable support to which the turret and cutter-block are relatively rotatable.

In testimony whereof we affix our signatures in presence of two witnesses.

GRANVILLE M. NoRWooD, CHARLES J. HALPEN. 

